A good chicken run gives your flock space to roam, scratch, and dust bathe—while keeping them protected from predators. Whether you're building a permanent enclosed run or a flexible open-top space with moveable fencing, this guide walks you through your options and helps you build a setup that works for your birds and your lifestyle.
What Is a Chicken Run?
A chicken run is a secure outdoor area attached to or near the coop that lets your chickens safely enjoy fresh air and sunshine. It's especially useful if:
- You can’t free-range daily
- You're worried about predators
- You want to protect your garden or landscaping
Chicken Run Options: Open-Top vs. Enclosed
Option 1: Fully Enclosed Chicken Run
Best for: Predator-prone areas, unsupervised free-range time, keeping wild birds or pests out
Materials Needed:
- ½" or ¼" hardware mesh (not chicken wire)
- UV-stabilized zip ties or galvanized staples
- Wood or metal framing
- Roof framing with mesh or poly panels
Recommended Dimensions:
- Height: 6 ft or taller (walk-in space)
- Size: 8–10 sq ft per chicken
Key Build Notes:
- Bury hardware mesh 12 inches down and extend it 12 inches out horizontally to deter digging predators
- Include a secure entry door with a locking latch
- Fully cover the top to protect from hawks and raccoons
Option 2: Open-Top Chicken Run with Electric Poultry Fencing
Great for: Rotational grazing, seasonal setups, flexible space for foraging
Recommended Setup:
- Electric poultry netting, 42–48 inches tall
- Solar or plug-in energizer
- Optional: ground staples or tent pegs for securing
Why It Works:
- Quick setup and takedown
- Easy to move for fresh ground or pasture rotation
- Ideal for larger yards or rural areas
Tips for Success:
- Pole spacing: 10–12 feet
- Pole height: 48 inches (standard with poultry netting)
- Use a battery or solar energizer rated for at least 2–3 miles
- Keep fence clear of dense grass or shrubs to prevent grounding out
Note: Electric poultry netting delivers a quick, harmless zap that trains chickens to stay in and deters predators from getting too close.
Framing & Post Guide: Build to Your Budget
For Fully Enclosed Chicken Runs
- Posts: 4x4 pressure-treated wood
- Post height: 7–8 ft above ground
- Bury depth: Minimum 2 ft (set in gravel and concrete for stability)
- Post spacing: 6–8 ft apart
These heavy-duty posts are perfect for supporting mesh walls and roof framing in a permanent structure. They’re ideal for predator-prone areas or high snow load zones.
For Budget-Friendly Open Runs
- Posts: 2"–3" round wood fencing posts (pressure-treated)
- Post height: At least 6 ft above ground
- Bury depth: 18–24 inches
- Post spacing: 8–10 ft
These are a great option for semi-permanent or seasonal setups. Use ground tamping or gravel to secure posts. You can combine with electric netting or welded wire fencing for flexibility.
Predator-Proofing Tips
- Use hardware mesh, not chicken wire. Chicken wire keeps chickens in, not predators out.
- Bury fencing or install a mesh skirt: 12 inches down and 12 inches out
- Add hawk deterrents: criss-crossed wire, fishing line, or bird netting
- Install motion lights or predator alarms
- Close the coop door at dusk—automatic doors help with this
Final Thoughts
Whether you're keeping a few hens in your backyard or managing a growing homestead flock, the right chicken run setup makes all the difference. Secure fencing, thoughtful layout, and smart predator-proofing help keep your birds safe and your daily routine easier.
